Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary.
Climate and Pre-installation Procedures
Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur. Quicker acclimation can be achieved by opening the cartons, but DO NOT remove the product from the cartons. Make sure the room temperature is set at a normal living range (55 – 80 degrees). Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of five days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the subflooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials.
The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.
Acceptable subfloor types:
CDX plywood - minimum 3/4" thick
Underlayment grade particleboard (minimum 40 lb. density)
OSB - at least 3/4" thick, PS 2-92 rated or PS 1-95 rated
Resilient tile & sheet vinyl
Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends our engineered flooring be installed over radiant heated subfloors.
CONCRETE SUBSTRATE PREPARATION:
Concrete is required to be sound, smooth, level and flat with a maximum variation of
1/4” in 10’. Fill any low spots with appropriate filler and scrape any high spots. Subfloor
must be properly cured and tested for moisture content. Before moisture testing begins,
the concrete slab must be a MINIMUM of 30 days old. Testing of slabs less than 30 days
old can produce inaccurate, unreliable results; PH testing should be done on all slabs
regardless of age. The recommended method is the Calcium Chloride test and flooring
must not be installed if vapor pressure exceeds 3 lbs. per 1000 square feet in 24 hours.
1. Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials.
2. Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots.
3. Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
4. The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.
Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed.
On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter*
Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.
The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.
Maximum room dimensions for an engineered floating floor are 25 ft. across the boards
or 40 ft. lengthwise. Maximum room dimensions for a solid strand floating floor are
16 ft. across the boards or 35 ft. lengthwise. Floors exceeding either of these dimensions
require use of “T-Molding”. “T-Molding” should be installed in any doorway connecting
to larger areas of flooring. A minimum of one butt seam is required in every other row,
regardless of width (e.g. hallways).
Never attach any permanent object through the flooring, affixing it to the subfloor.
Never install cabinets on top of floating floors. A floating floor must be free to
expand and contract in all directions.
If installing over below-grade concrete, a 6 mil plastic moisture barrier MUST be laid
over entire subfloor before any other underlayments. Overlap plastic seams 8 inches.
Layout 2n1 underlayment foam or other sound deadening underlayment, butting seams.
Begin installation from the longest straightest wall, usually an outside wall. Start in the
corner and lay first row, with tongue ends and sides toward wall. Proper expansion space
can be achieved by pulling floor away from wall once first three rows have been
installed. Use spacers to maintain a proper expansion space of ½ inch.
Engage tongue of next board into groove of previous board by holding it against the first
board at approx. 45º angle and laying it flat on the floor. Continue in this manner for
entire first row.
Cut end board in first row to correct length and start second row with left-over piece (if
possible). End joints should be staggered by at least twice the width of the plank. Butt
seam must be placed in each row regardless of width, e.g. hallways. Do not use stair
step spacing and avoid H joints.
Engage tongue of next board into groove of previous boards by holding the board at
approx. 45º angle to the previous boards. Press forward to engage joint and lay flat on
Engage short end of new board. Lay flat keeping long side in line with groove of adjacent board.
Using tapping block, carefully tap long edges together until they are closed. DO NOT tap
too hard or over-engage. Never tap directly against wear layer. Continue this process
until you reach the end wall.
Cut last board to correct width. Place last board on top of second-to-last board. Mark
board with help of piece of board without locking edge. Use floor pull bar and mallet to
click the long side of planks.
NOTE:If boards cannot be easily angled under door frame (or similar), do the following:
cut away locking edge, then apply Floating Floor Adhesive and install board.
Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ¾ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ¾” expansion space requirement.
• Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor.
• Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
• Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
• Enjoy your new hard wood floor.
About Trims and Transitions
There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor. These are rough diagrams of common transition pieces, bamboo transitions are different thicknesses.
Moldings should be glued or nailed to the subfloor.
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some
boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep
your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.
In-floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so
flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating
system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and
leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should
never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).
NOTE: L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends engineered
flooring over radiant heat. Solid products are not warrantied
over radiant heat.