Floating Glue Installation Instructions
*For use with engineered floors only*

Inspect the job site carefully before you begin the installation. Some conditions require specific installation methods. A level, flat, clean, dry, and firm subfloor is always necessary.

Climate and Pre-installation Procedures

Material should be stored on the job site in rooms where installation is to occur. Quicker acclimation can be achieved by opening the cartons, but DO NOT remove the product from the cartons. Make sure the room temperature is set at a normal living range (55 – 80 degrees). Normal living conditions should be achieved and maintained a minimum of five days before flooring is brought into the living area for acclimation purposes. Proper acclimation is not a measurement of time; it is a measurement of moisture levels. It requires taking moisture readings of the flooring and the subflooring. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Using a moisture meter, test the subfloor and hardwood flooring for moisture content. Moisture content of the subfloor should be 6-12% depending on your area. When wood flooring is produced for the North American market, it has a moisture content of between 6-9%. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials. For wide‐width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials.

The customer is responsible for maintaining normal humidity conditions (35-55%) within the home throughout the year. L.W. Mountain, Inc. is not responsible for environmental conditions that cause excessive expansion and contraction.


Acceptable subfloor types:
  CDX plywood - minimum 3/4" thick
  Underlayment grade particleboard (minimum 40 lb. density)
  OSB - at least 3/4" thick, PS 2-92 rated or PS 1-95 rated
  Concrete slab
  Ceramic tile
  Resilient tile & sheet vinyl
Radiant Heated Floors – L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends our engineered flooring be installed over radiant heated subfloors.


Concrete is required to be sound, smooth, level and flat with a maximum variation of 1/4” in 10’. Fill any low spots with appropriate filler and scrape any high spots. Subfloor must be properly cured and tested for moisture content. Before moisture testing begins, the concrete slab must be a MINIMUM of 30 days old. Testing of slabs less than 30 days old can produce inaccurate, unreliable results; PH testing should be done on all slabs regardless of age. The recommended method is the Calcium Chloride test and flooring must not be installed if vapor pressure exceeds 3 lbs. per 1000 square feet in 24 hours.

Subfloor Preparation
      1. Subfloors must be cleaned. This can be scraping or sanding the floor to remove all foreign materials.
      2. Subfloors must be flat. ¼ inch in 10 feet. Sand all seams and high spots.
      3. Subfloors must be free of loose areas and squeaks before installation can start. Renail or screw down sections that are loose or squeak. Replace any subfloor that is damaged.
      4. The subfloor must be dry before you begin your installation.

Above Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed.
On Grade - Engineered and Solid floors can be installed. L.W. Mountain. Inc. does not recommend gluing down solid wood on concrete slabs. Solid Bamboo can be glued with appropriate adhesives. *See Technical Letter*
Below Grade - Engineered floors can be installed. Solid wood and bamboo should not be installed below grade.


                                                                         Important Notice
The installer is the final inspector of this product. Once a board is nailed or glued to the floor, it is deemed to be acceptable to the installer and homeowner. If the installer is not sure whether or not the floor’s milling or grading is acceptable, work should stop immediately and a call should be made to the person that sold the floor.

Maximum room dimensions for an engineered floating floor are 25 ft. across the boards or 40 ft. Floors exceeding either of these dimensions require use of “T-Molding”. A minimum of one butt seam is required in every other row, regardless of width (e.g. hallways). Never attach any permanent object through the flooring, affixing it to the subfloor. Never install cabinets on top of floating floors. A floating floor must be free to expand and contract in all directions.

Step 1
If installing over concrete, a 6 mil plastic moisture barrier MUST be laid over entire subfloor before any other underlayments. Overlap plastic seams 8 inches. Layout 2n1 underlayment foam or other sound deadening underlayment, butting seams.
Step 2
Begin installation from the longest straightest wall, usually an outside wall. Start in the corner and lay first row, with groove ends and sides toward wall. Proper expansion space can be achieved by pulling floor away from wall once first three rows have been installed. Use spacers to maintain a proper expansion space of ½ inch.
Step 3
Apply a 1/8 inch bead of Floating Floor Adhesive to the top edge of the end groove of the second board. Engage groove onto tongue of the first board. Continue in this manner for entire first row.
Step 4
Cut end board in first row to correct length and start second row with left-over piece (if possible). End joints must be staggered by at least 8 inches. Avoid stair-stepping and H end joints. Butt seam must be placed in each row regardless of width, e.g. hallways.
Step 5
Apply 1/8 inch continuous bead of Floating Floor Adhesive to top edge of the side groove. Engage the groove onto the tongue of the previous row and press together.
Step 6
Engage short end of new board keeping long side in line with tongue of adjacent board. Blue painter tape can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. (Incorrect tape can harm the finish.) Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals.
Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment.
Step 7
Using tapping block, carefully tap long edges together until they are closed. DO NOT tap too hard or over-engage. Never tap directly against wear layer. Continue this process until you reach the end wall.
Step 8
Cut last board to correct width. Place last board on top of second-to-last board. Mark board with help of piece of board without locking edge. Use floor pull bar and mallet to click the long side of planks.

Remember that all walls and other vertical structures in the room must have a ¾ inch expansion space left between it and the floor. If your drywall stops at least ¾” above the floor, the thickness of the drywall can be considered part of the ¾” expansion space requirement.

         • Once the floor has been completed the base and the quarter round can be reinstalled into the room. This will cover the expansion gaps left between the wall and the floor.
         • Sweep or vacuum the floor using a soft brush attachment.
         • Finish by cleaning the floor with an approved hardwood floor cleaner.
         • Enjoy your new hard wood floor.

About Trims and Transitions

There is a variety of trims and transitions to accent a floor by covering expansion gaps or transitioning from one flooring surface to another. Before completing your floor it is important to know what trim pieces you will need for your floor. These are rough diagrams of common transition pieces, bamboo transitions are different thicknesses.

Moldings should be glued or nailed to the subfloor.

Additional Information

Waste Factor
Additional square footage ordered for an installation is commonly referred to as a waste factor. During installation, boards are cut to specifically fit your floor. In addition, some boards may not be suitable for installation because of milling or color preferences which means it becomes waste. Finally, unfortunate damage during the life of your floor may call for replacing a board, and having spare flooring from the same stock can help to keep your floor’s appearance. The standard in the flooring industry is to order five - ten percent of additional flooring to cover cuts and other waste.

In-floor Radiant Heat: With radiant heat, heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than in a home with conventional heating system. For this installation, once slab has cured, turn heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Maximum surface temperature should never be more than 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).

NOTE: L.W. Mountain, Inc. only recommends the use of engineered flooring over radiant heat. Any adhesive used should be rated for radiant heat.