- Straight edge
- Chalk Line
- Measuring tape
- Power Crosscut Saw
- Jigsaw for cutting irregular shapes
- Rubber Mallet
- Blue or Green Painter’s Tape
- Assorted spacers
Planks needed to complete your project
Measure the length and width of your room. If the room has alcoves or offsets, measure these separately. This will give you the square footage of the room. Purchase a minimum of 10% extra to cover mistakes, trimming, and for future needs and replacement. Most installations require about 10% overage. However, this can vary depending upon the room size, layout and the experience of the installer.
SPC - VINYL PLANKS comes in 7” x 48” planks with 8 planks per case = 18.91 s.f. per case. So, if your room is 10’ x 10’ or 100 s.f., we would recommend you purchase 6 cases (113.46 s.f.)
HELPFUL HINT #1: For best results it is important to purchase product (cases) from the same batch number (dye lot). Different batch numbers can have shade variations. Every case of flooring has the batch number printed on the end of the case. Batch number example: AS01. If you do have more than one batch number, we highly recommend you install planks from 4 or 5 different cases from different batch number at one time and randomly mix them into the installation as you go. This will insure a more natural looking floor.
CAUTION: Do not install SPC - Vinyl Planks over carpet. This product is not suitable for any outside use, sunrooms, solariums, sauna, or rooms that have the potential of flooding. We also highly recommend you do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled. Exposure to long term direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.
Acclimation: The home should be at “normal living conditions” for a minimum of 1 week prior to and during installation. L.W. Mountain, Inc. does not require that the SPC - Vinyl Planks be acclimated before installation. It is noted that in extreme temperatures (hot or cold), the product will be easier to work with if it is allowed to obtain a temperature of 60-70 degrees before installation. The home should be maintained at 55-85 degrees and 35-55% humidity.
Carpet staples or adhesive residue must be removed to insure proper installation.
Subfloors should be flat within a tolerance of 3/16” over a span of 10 feet. Any unevenness over 3/16” must be sanded down or filled with a floor leveler. Voids or humps in the subfloor will prevent the planks from locking properly. Wood subfloors must be dry and well secured. New concrete floors need to cure for a minimum of 60 days.
HELPFUL HINT #2: If installing the flooring over exiting ceramic tile, it will be necessary to skim coat
the grout lines with a floor leveler. If you install the planks over an existing floor that has an embossing
or grout line on it, you must skin coat with a floor leveler if the embossing or grout line is greater than
If you have old vinyl and don’t want to pay for an expensive removal and remediating job, SPC - Vinyl
Planks can be installed directly over the existing floor. Any loose or damaged tiles should be patched
prior to installing the new floor over the old floor. Never sand old vinyl floors from any floor
manufacturer if you think the floor may be over 20 years old.
HELPFUL HINT #3: Before laying out the floor, check the wall you are starting from and make sure it
is square to the opposite wall. Simply measure the room from opposite ends of the wall to the far wall.
If the measurements are different, you can make adjustments on the first row by scribing the plank.
1. Starting from the left, lay a row of loose planks without securing them to each other first to
determine if you need to adjust the layout or scribe the first row to conform to the starting wall.
2. Installation should start with the first piece in a corner (left hand) and proceed from the wall with
the groove facing out away from the wall. Allow a minimum gap of 1/4” for subfloor movement
or product expansion, which should be covered by molding.
3. Line up the end of the next piece by overlapping the first. Using a rubber mallet, tap the joint
together with a downward motion until the tongue and groove are securely locked. Continue in
this manner until you have reached the end of the first row.
4. Be sure to keep the seams tight. You will feel and hear the click when locking the planks together
to create a tight seam. There should be no gap visible between planks. If your seam appears not
to be tight, you can immediately pull apart the planks and reapply it. Slowly and carefully lift the
top plank away from the bottom plank and simply apply then repeating Step #3. Be careful not to
pull the planks apart too fast or you could rip or damage the Locking Strip.
5. When installing SPC - Vinyl Plank, it is strongly recommended to stagger the rows so that the
short edge (7”) seams are not in a straight uniform line. We recommend staggering the end-joints
by a minimum of 8” but maintaining a random layout. Do not create a pattern.
6. Interlock the first plank tightly against the first row (long side) at a 15-20-degree angle.
7. Align the end of the next plank over the end groove of the previous plank and lower the side joint
together. Tap the end joint down with the rubber mallet using a downward angle towards the
adjoining plank until the tongue and groove lock together.
8. Inspect each plank after install to assure the long and short ends are tight.
9. Continue with the installation in this manner. Use end cuts as starters for the next rows as long as
proper stagger is maintained.
HELPFUL HINT #4: When cutting SPC - Vinyl Plank for length, be sure to always cut the short side of
the plank with the groove edge. The remaining piece can then be used on the opposite side of the room
at the end of that row if layout permits.
10. To fit around irregular objects, simply make a pattern out of heavy paper. Place the pattern upon
the plank and trace. Cut along trace lines using a jigsaw. Be sure to leave a minimum of 1/4”
expansion space around all fixed objects, floor vents, and door frames and walls.
11. When installing under door jambs, it may be required to carefully shave the top ledge of the
groove. Use wood glue applied to bottom lip of the groove to secure. Hold in place with painter’s
tape until glue is dry.
12. After complete, reinstall or add new quarter round to cover expansion space. Only nail straight
into the wall base, do not nail down through the floor into the subfloor as this will eliminate the
13. Add appropriate transition moldings. Make sure the floor can float under the overlap of each
• This is a floating floor system. As with all floating floors, do not install cabinets on top of
flooring. The cabinets must be installed first and the flooring cut around them.
• Do not install in rooms or homes that are not temperature controlled. Exposure to long term
direct sunlight can cause damage to your floor.
• Furniture should have felt pads attached to all legs and all metal tabs/nails removed.
• Do not use ball type castors as they can damage the floor. All castors or wheels should be easy
swiveling and suitable for resilient flooring.
• SPC - Vinyl Plank is approved for installation over In-floor Radiant Heat. Floor temperature
must not exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit.